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- They say “ you have
only to stroll through the banqueting halls and gaze down
from the balconies of the many castles and palaces here to
imagine the intrigue and pageantry that took place back in
the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, when Gondar, then
the Ethiopian capital, was home to a number of emperors and
warlords, courtiers and kings ”.
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Gondar rose to
prominence after Ethiopia went through a long period without a fixed
capital and emerged in the seventeenth century as the largest
settlement in the country. It was an important administrative,
commercial, religious, and cultural centre and was noted for the skill
of its many craftsmen.
The oldest and the most impressive of Gondar’s imperial structures is
the two storeyed palace of Emperor Fasilidas, which is built of roughly
hewn brown basalt stones held together with mortar.
Other buildings in the ‘imperial quarter’ of Gondar include the library
of Fasihdas’s son Emperor Yohannes I (1667—1682); a nearby chancellery;
the saddle-shaped castle of Yohanness son, Emperor lyasu I (1682-1706);
the large hall or ‘house of song’ of Emperor Dawit III (1716-1721), in
which many ceremonies took place in former days; the long V-shaped
reception and banqueting hall of Emperor Bakaffa (1722-1730); and the
two-storeyed palace of the latter’s redoubtable consort, Empress
Mentewab. The palace compound is also the site of the grave of one the
most remarkable nineteenth-century foreign travellers to Ethiopia:
Emperor Tewodros’s close friend Walter Plowden.
Several notable Gondarine structures are to be seen outside the town.
The most impressive, located in the Kaha River valley south of Gondar,
is a well-preserved ‘bathing palace’ variously attributed to Fasilidas
or lyasu I. It stands in a rectangular, neatly walled depression, which
is filled with water once a year for the Timkat (Epiphany) celebrations,
and, though popularly referred to as a ‘bathing palace’, was in fact
probably constructed for such celebrations. Not far away stand the ruins
of a small pavilion said to have been the mausoleum of a horse named
Zobel belonging to Fasilidas, lyasu, or some other Gondarine monarch of
former times.
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